Linen Shirt

This is another garment to be worn as part of the Stone Dog Baronial Green and Blue Fashion Show.
This item is a self-threaded linen 12th century shirt. Entirely hand stitched using only threads pulled from the selvage, waxed with bees wax.
This was constructed out of the same linen as the braes I finished a few days ago.
(http://www.ercc-glaison.blogspot.com/2012/02/twelfth-century-braes-completed.html)

I based the construction using the instructions found in The Medieval Tailors Assistant.  This is not the first linen shirt that I’ve hand sewn, but it is the first time that I constructed a shirt entirely self-threaded.  I found that the technique is slightly different.  I used the same stitches, but I found that I had to use much smaller lengths of thread as the thread pulled from the selvage is not nearly as strong as the type one might purchase already spun and spooled.  The other thing I noticed was that the thread is not straight and easy to sew with unless waxed well.  The thread pulled from the selvage is not straight and is often slightly slubby which makes it snag when hand stitching.

The following image shows both threads.  On the left you will see a section of thread purchased on a spool.  On the right you will see the thread pulled from the selvage.  To compensate for the "ripples" in the pulled thread I had to apply more beeswax than normal.  I also found that doubling up the threads helped in sections of the garment which were likely to be under more stress.

Ayerton Blue and Green Fashion Show - Wool Belt Pouch Lined with Linen

 Garment to be worn as part of the Stone Dog Baronial Green and Blue Fashion Show.  This is another rather simple item.  After spending about 50 hours making a shirt and pants I wanted to start a slightly smaller project.  This is intended to be an accessory to a fully hand stitched outfit which I hope to wear in the Ayerton Green and Blue fashion show.  I have a friend whom I consider to be an expert in medieval studies.  When going through her and her husband’s garb closet I spotted a very nice looking wool pouch.  She explained the construction and purpose and that alone inspired me to remake my belt pouch.  My persona for this outfit is a craftsman and as such I need no embellishment on the pouch.  The item is simply practical and functional.  It is made from heavy wool lined with linen using a leather thong as a closure. The wool was taken from a Salvation Army woman’s coat. The linen was from scraps left over from a recent shirt/braes created for the same fashion show. The leather thong was reclaimed from a leather shoulder belt attached to a woman’s brief case from Salvation Army.



(( Insert image of item being worn ))

Ayerton Blue and Green Fashion Show - Linen Coif

Garment to be worn as part of the Stone Dog Baronial Green and Blue Fashion Show
Twelfth century linen coif. Entirely hand stitched using linen thread waxed with bees wax.
This is nothing special.  I want my entire outfit to be hand constructed, so it was simply a necessity.  I’ve made coifs before, but I’ve never completely hand stitched one.  It feels good checking things of the list, but this item actually took about 4 hours to construct from start to finish.
I mocked up the pattern using a scrap piece of material.  I pinned it together to get the overall shape before cutting the final pattern from the linen.  The linen I used was a small portion of scrap remaining from my recent shirt/braes project.  I tried to keep the stitching as small as possible as I suspected that this item might someday find its way into an A&S competition.  No single stitch is over 1/16th of an inch.  I tried to keep the length of the stitches to be no more than the width of 3 warp/weft threads.  The tie is simply the selvedge edge of the material.  I folded the selvage into a tape and whip stitched it closed.

Twelfth Century Braes completed

I recently started down the road of making an entire 12th century outfit.  The starting point was of course, the under garment layer.  I’ve seen others wear braes cut in the very odd fashion, but I’ve never worn them.  After completing them I was a bit concerned.  When I first put them on, they felt very much like I was wearing an oversized diaper.  I slept in them and surprisingly they looked and felt much better the next morning.  The linen was a bit stiff when I first put them on.  After wearing them for about 12 hours they seem to have found a more comfortable way to bunch and fold.  They look much more like the images I have seen after they have been worn in a bit.

 These are self-threaded which means rather than using linen thread from a spool, I simply pulled threads from the selvage edge and used that to stitch the garment together.  The only portion that is not linen is the braided tape I chose to use as a draw string.  I may look for a linen version at some point, but I wanted to put them on and try the fit and could not wait.

I based the construction using the instructions found in The Medieval Tailors Assistant.  I must admit that the instructions regarding the waist band was not all together helpful.  I played around with a few styles of the belt before choosing the structure I did.  The waist band of the braes is actually three layers thick.  There are two layers on the inside and one on the outside.  I wanted one extra layer against my skin and behind the draw string so as to cushion a my waist against a tightly pulled draw string. 

(( Insert image of draw string opening )) 

  

 There are two holes in the front of the waist band which will be used for tying the hosen to, when they are completed.  I wasn’t sure exactly how to do this portion, so I simply made a small slit and then button hole stitched around the hole to reinforce the edge.

My daughter laughed so hard at this one.
She kept saying it looked like I was
wearing a diaper.  "Why are they so baggy?"

  
The sides of the braes are slit at the bottom as was done in the images I’ve seen.  This allows for an alternate method of wear.  I can easily roll the legs up and tuck this portion into the waste band which makes for a very comfortable shortened version.  This might be done when working outside on a very hot day.  Whey I first showed my wife this manner of wearing the braes she did a double take and said “What… What the hell is that!”  I guess that means they look correct!

OK, I'm not proud of these, but simply wanted to show what the braes looked like when they are rolled up as they might be when one is working in the hot sun.

 

New hand sewing project started

Well, I've been out of it from a sewing perspective for a while.  Turns out that I gained just enough weight lately that I don't well fit into my nicer clothes.  I've started a new weight loss program and have taken 12 pounds off already.  In the mean time I'd hate to start new garb.  I decided to go back to my original SCA roots.  I've taken a step back away from Elizabethan and have decided to do a new outfit in 12th century style.  I've chosen this for a few reasons.  Been a while since I've done some hand sewing.  Also been a while since I've done an earlier period.  Most of all, the garb is forgiving for those who are shifting in size.  I'll make the outfit sized for my current girth and will simply wear it a bit loose if'/when I lose the weight.

So far I've cut and began assembling a pair of braes.  I've also cut the material for a shirt and plan on starting assembly tomorrow at sewing guild.  Nothing fancy.  Pattern was based on a layout found in The Medieval Tailor's Assistant.  The material is 100% linen purchased from ... who knows.   Found it in a bin in my basement.  Probably there for 3~6 years.  Had a tag I put on it with the yardage and material.  All I know now is that it is 100% linen.

So far I have about 15 hours of sewing in on the braes.  They are all self threaded.  I used a strip of the selvage edge and have been pulled out to used as a construction thread.  I have been using the warp threads as opposed to the weft threads as they are much stronger and hold up better to the stress of sewing.  Still I find that I must keep my threads to about 6~8 inches of working length and wax the thread well.  The self threaded style of sewing tends to fray the thread very easily.  The thread is not nearly as strong as a spool of linen thread that one might buy.  This is the first time I've tried using this construction method entirely on a complete item.  I've done it in the past for small sections, but never for the construction of a complete garment.

Four more scrolls done

 The following three blanks were all loosely based on a design I saw from a French hunting manual.  I wanted use Kingdom colors (Red and Green) as much as possible.  After seeing these completed blanks I really need to work on my white work.

 

This is one of my favorites so far.  Not all that elaborate of a design, but it will be perfect for an archery award.  It is based on a page from The Hours of Catherine of Cleves.

http://www.themorgan.org/collections/works/cleves/images/097-M917_252-253.jpg

  

Forty Scroll cases

The Midrealm issued a "Midrealm Scroll Case Challenge".

I decided to take up the challenge and make some scroll cases to go along with the scroll blanks I had recently been working on.  As it turns out, making scroll cases goes a heck of a lot faster than making the scrolls.  Shocking I know!

Over a period of three weeks or so I scrounged up all the cardboard I could from work.  When I had a decent sized pile I started going through the bins of scrap material in my basement.  It turned out to be a nice little recycling project.  I was able to purge almost two full bins of material.  I had scraps of material from over 10 years ago.  I never throw any material away.  This gave me a real reason to finally purge.  It was kind of funny when my wife saw the pile.  She recognized some of the material.  I had leftovers from kids baby blankets, pajamas, SCA clothing and a host of Halloween costumes.  It turned out to be a nice little pile when it was done.

Forty scroll cases in all.

Finished scroll blank

Inspiration: Image found in book: call number:745.67 BOLOGNA, G ID:31257010045655
Illuminated manuscripts : the book before Gutenberg / Giulia Bologna.

Here is an image which shows a side by side comparison of the inspiration and my finished scroll blank.  I chose not to fill in the shaded area as was done in the original manuscript.  I think I like the way it looks with just the red and gold.

Paper Stock:  Strathmore Bristol Board - Vellum Surface, 9in X 12in
Gilding: Holbein Gold gouache.
Technique: Free hand sketched with a mechanical pencil.
Inked in with Red India ink applied with a metal-nibbed dip pen.

More scroll blanks completed

The deadline for the Midrealm Scroll Blank Challenge is quickly approaching.  I finished six more scroll blanks.  Sadly, they don't scan in well.  They have gilding done with gold gouache which doesn't look quite as nice in the scans as it does in real life.  Oh well...

Here they are.
All free hand sketched and then inked in with India Ink.
Painted with gouache and gilded with Holbein Gold Gouache.

Taught my first class

Well, it is over.  I taught my first class at an event.  I'm really not comfortable speaking in public and find it very difficult to get up an "teach" something.  The class went well enough.  I did a lot of planning and for a first attempt I guess it wasn't bad.  My estimate of required time was way off.  I was hoping to do a 15~20 minute discussion and then do hands on work.  Turned out to be more like a 40 minute discussion and only 20 minutes hands on.  Ended up having 10 people doing the hands on and so I was a little pressured to get it all in.  I think next time I'll really have to limit the hands on work to make sure there is more time to one on one coaching.  I suppose I'll do the class again, some day, but not sure when.

Class Details

SCA Name	Ercc Glaison
Mundane Name	Anthony Satoh
Email	Ercc.Glaison@gmail.com
Blog	http://ercc-glaison.blogspot.com/
Class Title	Pins and Needles
Class Description	Study and construction of period pins and needles. Overview of the extant examples and the construction of period pins and needles.  Hands on practice creating a period item.
Class Duration	1 hour
Class Limit	Hands on practice: 6 Observers: No Limit
Class Fee	In lieu of a fee for handouts and materials, the instructor asks only for small token.  The contributor of the most interesting token will receive a “prize” and the appreciation of the instructor.
Class Special Needs	Not Applicable
Class Age Limit	Over 18 or attendance with supervising adult

I tried something I hadn't seen before and I'm really happy with the way it turned out.  I was dressed as a Friar and as a member of a mendicant order I cannot ask for or receive payment for services or materials.  I asked simply that everyone give a token in trade for the materials and handouts.  That part was really fun.  One person actually cut of a section of his chain which was used to hold his drinking horn.  I considered that the best token and rewarded the individual with a hand made bone needle.  I really like that portion of the interaction during the class.  If I ever teach another class I’ll be sure to do that again.

Class: Period Pins and Needles

Well, it is now official.  I will be teaching my first SCA class.  I have signed up to do it once before but had to back out at the last minute due to "real life" issue getting in the way.  I plan on teaching my first class this coming weekend at the Festival of Maidens.  Here is the post from the event website: http://www.festivalofmaidens.info/?page_id=52

11:00 Pins and Needles:

Study and construction of period pins and needles. Overview of the extant examples and the construction of period pins and needles as well as hands on practice creating a period item. Limit 6 for hands-on participation (sign up at troll); no limit for observers. Participants must me 18 or attend with a supervising adult. In lieu of a fee for handouts and materials, the instructor asks only for small token. The contributor of the most interesting token will receive a “prize” and the appreciation of the instructor. Lord Ercc Glaison

More completed scroll blanks

Here are some more scroll blanks I have completed.
Frankly, I suck at documentation.  Don't much care for it most of the time.  I had a pile of books from the library which I was using as inspiration.  Was planning on scanning in those images to help do a write up of each of the scrolls.  I just find it to be more fun painting.  Never got around to scanning pics in and all the books came due.  Sorry, but I don't have the period source of inspiration for most of these.

Two Celtic Scroll Blanks

A few more scroll blanks "finished".

I use the term finished loosely as I plan on cleaning up some of the color and some of the inked in lines.  It's late and I'll likely finish a handful of Celtic blanks and then come back and clean them all up at the same time.

 

Paper Stock:  Strathmore Bristol Board - Vellum Surface, 9in X 12in

Paint: Gouache

Gilding: None

Technique: Free hand sketched with a mechanical pencil. 

Inked in with India ink applied with a metal-nibbed dip pen. 

Applied color using brushed on gouache paint.

Inspiration: Border was inspired by a section of a 7th century plaque as represented in the book "101 Celtic Beasts".

Initial word "Pay" inspired by decorations from the Book of the Kells.

Paper Stock:  Strathmore Bristol Board - Vellum Surface, 9in X 12in

Paint: Gouache

Gilding: None

Technique: Free hand sketched with a mechanical pencil. 

Inked in with India ink applied with a metal-nibbed dip pen. 

Applied color using brushed on gouache paint.

Inspiration: Border was inspired by a section of a page from the Durham Gospels as represented in the book "101 Celtic Beasts".

Initial word "Tell" inspired by decorations from the Book of the Kells.

Four scroll blanks finished

I'm just having a bunch of fun with this scribal stuff.  I've gotten 40 designs started, of which 36 have been inked in.  I'm falling behind posting anything anymore.  Here are four completed blanks.  They are all based on the same design.  I came accross the design on a website.  Sorry, but I don't recall where I saw it.  I liked the simple nature of the design and thought it would give me a chance to try my hand at white work.  All in all I'm only really happy with one of them, but this is a learning experience as well.

They are all free hand sketched with a mechanical pencil.  They were inked in with India ink applied with a metal-nibbed dip pen. I applied the color using brushed on gouache paint.  There is some gold accents (which were not picked up well by my scanner) which were done using Holbein Gold gouache.