Wednesday, January 8, 2014

Greenwork Shirt About Completed!

Probably not a lot in the way of comments on this post.  I have spent 330 hours to get the shirt to the point where you see it at the end of this post.  All that is left now is to add the tapes to close the cuffs and collar.  


I continued to measure my progress by how many spools of thread I used.  I had anticipated using 10 spools and when the project reached it's conclusion I had used about 9.2 spools.  Pretty good estimate.

To test the layout I placed the cut out design pieces around on the shirt to determine if I liked the look and layout.  Once determined I transferred each image onto the shirt a few at a time.




Three spools left to finish the front and assemble the pieces.

Front and back finished!  All the greenwork completed I started working on the border.  All the borders are a basic buttonhole type stitch.  Once all the edges are completed I whip stitched them together.

Armpit and shoulder gussets.

Sleeve assembly with gusset attached.


Wrist opening is about 2 inches from the edge of the sleeve.

Armpit gusset view of the first sleeve after it was attached.


Detail of front opening before collar attached.

Small bit of reinforcement at the bottom of the neck opening.


Shoulder gusset attached.  The extant shirt I was modeling this after was not assembled using the buttonhole edge approach.  I combined the design of three extant shirts to arrive at my design.  One of the extant shirts I saw which was assembled with this buttonhole edge approach did not have such a treatment on the shoulder gusset.  I decided to add it on my shirt.  This is one of the small items of the design I don't really care for on the completed shirt.  I'm not sure if I would do it again the same or not.  The look may grow on me, but right now I don't really care for the edge-work on the shoulder gusset.


Some of the extant shirts had a small tab to reinforce the slit up the side of the shirt.  I decided to add a small triangle of material.  This is the second version of the tabs which I created.  The first version where more like an isosceles triangle.  They appeared to wide and therefore I decided to toss them and make these revised tabs.


Finished cuffs and collar.




Down to about 80% of my final spool with only the closures to finish.  Once I decide how I'll construct the tapes I'll add them.  For now the 330 hour project is on hold.

Here is a chart of the hours spent on each section of the project.

Cuff and Collar Layout0.67
Edgework layout0.33
Initial frame setup1
Overall design and layout7.33
Research, drawing & layout planning1.5
Wash and stretch fabric0.42
Back Section 1 - Flowers/Bees6.42
Back Section 1 - Vines8.83
Back Section 2 - Flowers/Bees7.25
Back Section 2 - Vines10
Back Section 3 - Vines9.08
Body Bottom Hem3.25
Cuff 14.17
Cuff 25
Cuff/Collar Assembly8.58
Edgework Armpit Gusset1.92
Edgework Body7.17
Edgework Body - Front1.42
Edgework Neck Gusset0.83
Edgework Sleeve 14.08
Edgework Sleeve 22
Front Section 1 - Flowers/Bees7.67
Front Section 1 - Vines10.33
Front Section 2 - Flowers/Bees9.25
Front Section 2 - Vines9.42
Front Section 3 - Flowers/Bees7.58
Front Section 3 - Vines (double)13.58
Front Section 4 - Flowers/Bees7.42
Front Section 4 - Vines14.17
Front Section 5 - Vines10.25
Shoulder Gusset1.25
Side Bottom Gusset1.17
Sleeve 1 Section 1 - Flowers/Bees5
Sleeve 1 Section 1 - Vines12.33
Sleeve 1 Section 2 - Flowers/Bees4.28
Sleeve 1 Section 2 - Vines11.25
Sleeve 1 Section 3 - Flowers/Bees3.33
Sleeve 1 Section 3 - Vines9.83
Sleeve 1 Section 4 - Flowers/Bees4
Sleeve 1 Section 4 - Vines11.5
Sleeve 1 Section 5 - Vines2.08
Sleeve 2 Section 1 - Flowers/Bees5.33
Sleeve 2 Section 1 - Vines13.92
Sleeve 2 Section 2 - Flowers/Bees4.33
Sleeve 2 Section 2 - Vines12.25
Sleeve 2 Section 3 - Flowers/Bees4.58
Sleeve 2 Section 3 - Vines10.08
Sleeve 2 Section 4 - Flowers/Bees5.25
Sleeve 2 Section 4 - Vines11
Sleeve 2 Section 5 - Vines1.92
Grand Total330.87

Here are a coupld graphs of the hours spent.  I think I went a bit overboard tracking time on this one.