Friday, October 19, 2012

Landsknecht Doublet and Shorts Completed!

My least favorite part of this project... lacing holes.  Had about one fourth of them done, but the lacing holes to point the top and bottom had to wait until both garments were complete.  Here is the process I used.  Ease a hole into the fabric with a metal awl.  Open the hole further with a bone awl, which is about twice as wide as this one.  Results in a hole of about 1/4 inch in diameter.  That's rather tough when you consider that I'm going through three layers of wool, two of linen and one of silk.  After easing through the opening I start stitching the hole edge with a heavy cotton line.  This is the same line I used to make the laces and all the trim work so far.  I only go around the hole twice and try to make it as even and pretty as possible, but ultimately I had so many to do and I knew nobody would be scrutinizeing them I didn't care much.  I just wanted this portion done.  There are eight pairs of holes on the shorts and matching holes on the doublet.  There are three sets on the doublet to close the front and two sets on the cod piece.  In all that makes 50 of these stinking holes I had to do.

 

Here is Daddy in action.  My daughter is my biggest fan I think and she is the one taking most of the photos. She got this one of Daddy in action.  One daughter was playing the violin and the other taking photos.  Sewing is much more fun when you do it to live music.  :-)


Not all the hole were finished in black.  I did the ones on the doublet in purple to make them pop a little more since these are likely the only ones anyone will even pay attention to.



 

After making three sets of laces I ended up not happy with any of them entirely.  I like the first set (pictured above) and will likely use those for the cod piece and lacing the doublet to the shorts.  Those laces were a little thin though.  I wanted something a little heavyer for the most commonly tied and untied ones on the front of the doublet.  I started by making the ones on the far right of the next image.  Thats a lovely cord.  Very soft cotton yarn and very strong.  I was afraid that the yarn wouldn't be strong enough.  This cord can about hold my weight.  No problem there.  A bit too thick though.  I will end up using this one for the hat chin strap.  Thick and soft and works well for that.  Not for the doublet though.  I also wanted more color.  At the time I made the middle lace I had only black and two shades of blue cotton in the house and so I tried this pattern.  Love the pattern, but not enough pop!  I like the thickness, just not the color.  Not sure I'll use this one for anything.  Probably throw it in the day pack as a backup in case something breaks.  The last one I made is my favorite.  The one on the left is made from three colors of cotton.  Instead of doubling the lines as I did on the far right version, I used only single strands.  Thickness is perfect.  Color is perfect.  Loud and bright but not TOO contrsting.  Looks good to me.  Will have to make some brass or copper tips to finish the points later.  First thing is to get the outfit wearable though.




The outfit is now wearable!!!
The only thing left to do on this is to finish the inside seam of the sleeves (which nobody will ever look at anyway) and add the metal tips to the points.  What a happy day for me when I took this picture.  Many many many hours of work and it came out as good as I would have hoped!



 

Have to wait until the event before I post pictures of me wearing it though.  I tried it on (more than a few times) and I love it.  Wore it around the house for an hour and sat and watched TV in it to be sure that blood flow wouldn't be impeded by the tightness of the shorts.  All is well and good and I couldn't be happier.