Well I'm pretty sure I won't be doing that again! I finished the ruff finally. Normally I don't keep really good track of the time I spend on projects. I later get asked "how long did that take" and I honestly have no idea. This time I kept a good log. I wrote down start and stop times each time I worked on it. It took 48 hours to hand stitch this period-ish ruff. The ruff was based on a combination of Janet Arnold Pattersn of Fashion 4 ruff numbers 22 and 23. Here are images of those ruffs.
Friday, May 28, 2010
Monday, May 17, 2010
Well after messing it up last time, I have finished pleating the ruff. Now I have to sew it onto the neck band. As it turns out I had 66 feet of material to use in the ruff, but I only needed about 62 feet. I had to cut off an extra four foot section. I couldn't get the pleats any tighter. To fit my neck properly I guess I only need 62 feet of material? Heh? Who knew I had a 62 foot neck.
Wednesday, May 12, 2010
This hot punch was made from N7 steel. I needed a 3/8 in round punch to punch the tongs I would be making later in the day. This type of steel has a portion of chrome in it and is air hardening. I did most of the shaping of the tip and then drew the rest of the stock out and shaped it into octagon.
Here is the piece air hardening. Heated up to temp and then rested on some firebricks while it cooled.
Cleaned up this is the finished piece.
Tuesday, May 11, 2010
A couple nights ago I spend another four hours working on my ruff. It is coming out rather well I think. Now with all sixty-plus feet are assembled I began working on the pleating. I trimmed the length of the ruff to an even 5 inches. I then took a pencil made for marking material and marked every ¼ inch along the length. That turned out to be over 3,000 tick marks that had to be made. I then proceeded to put a stitch through each tick mark as the first step in the cartridge pleating process. It came out OK. Well, sort of OK. After pleating and then standing in front of the mirror with the ruff for a while I decided that I needed to tighten up the pleats. While attempting to tighten the pleats, I broke the binding thread and it all came apart. Luckily I took a picture of the ruff before that happened. The result looks much like the image from Janet Arnold’s book. I am happy with that, but now I have to pleat the whole thing again. Last night I spent about an hour beginning to pleat it again with a much heavier type of thread.